"...different forms to graduate is one of the subjects of endless debate between the college of climbers and mountaineers...".
It should be noted
the difference between the grade and difficulty. The degree is an indication of
the level required to develop a route
in normal conditions. The difficulty is related to the degree closely
considering the state of the environment: weather conditions, state of rock,
ice, snow,...; for example, it is not the same trying to climb through a rock
route "7A "in dry conditions and a temperature of 20 degrees, in the same way with
high humidity at a temperature of 4 º C... and if the rain continues, the
difficulty continues to increase as conditions are more
adverse. The physical and psychological state of climbers and mountaineers are variable
and therefore also closely linked with the difficulty. Another important
example that we found on the mountain, where weather conditions fluctuate with
large fluctuations and speed, as a consequence of the difficulty of the routes
will undergo major changes.
The different forms to graduate is one of the subjects of endless debate between
the college of climbers and mountaineers worldwide. In the last decades many scales
were proposed, with varying degrees of success: some were accepted and
then lost its continuity, others follow and others seeking followers today are
well established: these are what we use to be able to express with the greatest
accuracy possible the routes grade.
Referring to the difficulty, aside from the meteorological conditions, it is
believed to be possible to include in as much detail as possible in the various situations,
so that the climber has all information available, distances between insurance,
and two factors usually not referred and which are of great interest to
strengthen the security of each one: the exposure factor and the psychological
factor is actually difficult to measure given the diversity of appetites between
climbers, and as such the interpretation should go to a personal level where
everyone can enhance the state to face the routes.
- Grade: mentioned in the routes croquis.
- Factor of exposure: references given for the climber to interpret them
on a personal, which may be linked or not to the psychological factor.
- Psychological factor: it gives the references for the climber to
interpret them on a personal, which may or may not be linked to the exposure
factor.
| Grau | Descrição |
| A0 | Use of studs already on, and use of braces in the help of some passages, without using stirrups. |
| A1 | Artificial easy. The placement of the material is easy and solid. In case of fall the previous insurance should stop the climber without any problem. The route can take an hour or two to finalize. |
| A2 | Artificial moderate. The material can be placed solid, but its placement can be delicate and difficult. There is usually a safe that only supports the weight of our body, not a fall. The route can take between one and three hours to complete. |
| A3 | Hard artificial. It is necessary to check the insurances methodically through their use. Usually it is a route with several weak insurances, about five or six, and which only can withstand the weight of our body and not a fall. However the route has good insurance, which can withstand a possible fall. Potential drop of about 20m but without danger. The route can take between two to three hours to complete. |
| A4 | Serious artificial. Many insurances straight only endure the weight of our body (from 6 to 8). Possible fall of 20-30m with the potential danger of hitting heights salient. The route can take more than three hours to complete. |
| A5 | Extreme artificial. More than ten insurances straight that only endure the weight of the body and not a fall. You can practically fall out to the entire length of the route. It must be demonstrated with great precision all safes. The route can take more than four hours to complete. |
| A6 | Extreme artificial. Same as A5, but with the possibility that the reunion does not support a fall. The risk of death fall is real. |
| Equipamento | Descrição |
| Axe | Artificial equipped. The route is equipped with studs, spits, platelets or abandoned material (plomos, cams, etc..). |
| Axb | Artificial equipped. The route is equipped with striker pins, rivets and chinchetas. |
| Axc | Artificial equipped. The route is equipped with copperheads. |
| Axg | Artificial equipped. The square is equipped with hooks. |
| C | Artificial clean. Equiped with material that does not damage the rock (without studs, etc..). Replace the A with a C. |